DRESSING UP OF NaMo

Last week, when pictures of Prime Minister Narendra Modi with a sketch of a roaring tiger as backdrop were shared, an Instagram fan page posted ‘Kitne tiger the?’ (How many tigers were there?) Dressed in a camouflage T-shirt, sunglasses, khaki pants and a wide hat, Modi was dressed like an experienced nature lover ready for a jungle safari. None of the rookie mistakes of wearing bright colours in the forest, thank you.

While his skills as a leader of the largest democracy may be constantly questioned by the Opposition, even his bitterest critics would concede that as a politician he has taken power dressing to the next level — whether it is the made-to-measure extreme cold weather suit that he donned at the army camp in Siachen while meeting soldiers or the numerous kinds of turbans, scarfs and headgear he sports while on election rallies and state visits.

He was “sage-like” during the pandemic with his overgrown beard and hair and gives vibes of a global leader when travelling overseas, says Nilanjan Mukhopadhyay, author of ‘Narendra Modi: The Man, The Times’.

Fashion designer and BJP leader Shaina NC says the days of politicians and their rustic look are long gone. “When I was growing up the image of a politician was that of Lalu Yadav in a ganji and dhoti. Times have changed. Today’s youth look up to the PM not just for his work but also his appearance, whether he is wearing jodhpuris, a kurta with bandi (waistcoat) and a tight churidaar, or T shirt while flying a kite or in camouflage clothing when he is at a wildlife sanctuary. He values how he appears before the public.”

Since he took over as PM in 2014, he has already created a signature style with the ‘Modi kurta’ a short-sleeved kurta and tight churidaar that has been copied and adopted by people across the country. He has also adapted and, some would say, appropriated the Nehru jacket— turning it into a Modi jacket with the use of vibrant colours unlike the black and white versions sported by PM Jawaharlal Nehru.

Fashion designer Rina Dhaka says that besides the Modi kurta and jacket which became ‘piece de conversation’, his second signature style, shesays, is the tight churidar. “Clothes and physical appearance can make a significant statement besides speeches. Modi uses coats, headgear and shawls to layer his look for his public appearances,” she added. Netas of all hues have used clothes for political messaging.

In India, Mahatma Gandhi used khadi to connect with the poorest in the country while Nehru’s achkan and topi brought a sense of inclusivity to a divided nation. Among contemporary leaders, TMC chief Mamata Banerjee’s chappalcotton saree combination endears her to her vote bank while AAP leader Arvind Kejriwal’s Anna topi and muffler givesthe vibe of a common working-class man who is seemingly untouched by the rough and tumble of politics.

FRENCH PRESIDENT EMMANUEL MACRON
Internationally as well, many politicians let their clothes do the talking. French president Emmanuel Macron wore a ‘French blue’ (brighter than navy) suit just after winning a tough second term earlier this year and then turned up in working-class clothes — the humble hoodie — andstubble in what many said was an attempt to copy Ukraine president Volodymyr Zelenskyy’s olive-green hoodie.

UK PRIME MINISTER RISHI SUNAK
UK PM Rishi Sunak’s bespoke 3,500-pound suit and Prada shoes have drawn criticism of unfair privilege from the British public suffering from oil price hikes as much as global audiences have lauded. Perhaps Modi’s only misstep has been the monogrammed suit that he wore during President Obama’s India visit in 2015. Besides the ‘suit boot ki sarkar’ jibe, he was also criticised for his expensive accessories but since then ‘vocal for local’ has become his wardrobe trademark as well.

SHEFALEE VASUDEV OF VOICE OF FASHION
Shefalee Vasudev, editor in chief Voice of Fashion, says that Modi uses clothes to represent the diversity and complexity of Indian handlooms. “He wants to underline a certain identity through dressing as a political tool, yet instead of just wearing a bunch of India-proud clothes in a random way, he puts his love for clothes to smart and stylish use,” she says. The emphasis on appearance has been there from early on.

“In an old interview, Modi told me he was very particular about his clothes from his pracharak days. He kept his kurta and pyjama neatly folded under the mattress so it would appear ironed the next day,” Mukhopadhyay says. Mukhopadhyay adds that one of things to note is how carefully Modi uses saffron, choosing to wear it at occasions like the bhoomi pujan of the Ram Mandir at Ayodhya or the inauguration of the Kashi Vishwanath corridor and the new Parliament building.

There is important symbolism in absence. Unlike several presidents and prime ministers before him, Modi steers clear of the sherwani and skullcap. While travelling to states, he uses headgear, turbans playing off on local culture and nuance, much like Prime Minister Indira Gandhi who liked to wear handloom sarees from the state that she was campaigning in.

Internationally, he has chosen to dress for the occasion, often sporting sharply cut suits and scarves. Dhaka says, “As a representative of the country, his emphasis is on comfort. He is both avant garde and traditional which gives him a youthful vibe and makes him very in sync with today’s generation.” — WITH INPUTS FROM AGENCY

MONI SHARMA The writer is Editor (News) in First India, Jaipur